Day 6 and 7 Baena to Santa Cruz

Day 6       May 30^th                  Baena to Castro del Rio  - 20 kms

Ok.. I am tired. This camino stuff is hard work. I’m absolutely loving it, but it is work. Poor Spencer, he had dreams of snake attacks all night. In retrospect the snake thing was pretty scary. Spencer keeps reliving the attack over and over. We think the snake attacked him because Spencer was unknowingly threatening him with his walking pole. Spen was merely looking at what was rustling in the grass. 

We were on the road by 6am again.  The heat is good motivation for rising early. The morning coolness and stillness is wonderful. We find that if we walk steady for 3 hours we can cover a lot of distance. In the morning we seem to be averaging about 5kms an hour. As soon as the heat hits, the speed drops considerably. 

Last night we stayed in a hostel in the centre of Baena. The owners were Romanian and were very kind to us, but I am not too sure about their cleanliness standards.  Spencer pulled back his sheets and found quite a few curly hairs. We were both so tired that we didn’t put up a fuss. 

We are making up for it today though! Today we are staying in a little “Casa Rural” in Castro Del Rio.

 What a marvelous place it is. The owners have renovated, what was basically a cave, into a very clean, delightful pilgrim refuge. It is a complete house, 3 bedrooms, full kitchen, all for 36 euros a night. (special deal for pilgrims) 

This former cave/house has been occupied since the year 800 AD. The talkative owners were happy to show us all the relics they found whilst renovating. I am so glad that Spencer and I can speak Spanish as I think it would be very difficult to do this pilgrimage without some good basic Spanish. 

Castro Del Rio is town with a lot of history. It has been a major centre since the Bronze Age and many of Roman artworks that were found bear the same markings as those of Pompeii. It seems every village we have been to on this route has a defense castle and a church that once belonged to the Moors but was then taken over by the Christians. Every village has such history.

The food is also something to marvel at. At some time during the day we usually try to find a bar that serves “menu del Dia” This is usually a huge meal, consisting of soup or salad, a main course, dessert and wine or coffee all for 10 euros. We were having dinner last night when 2 cowboys showed up for some takeaway food. The bartender proceeded to give them beers out of the window. What service!!

Day 7                      Castro del Rio to Santa Cruz                  21kms

The landscape is beginning to change, there are less and less olive trees and more and more wheat and other grain fields 

It was a steady climb out of Castro del Rio. It was dark as we left and as we looked back it was amazing to see how far we have actually come. We have now done about 120 kms, hard to believe.

We are starting to find our rhythm. It looks like we are basically getting up very, very early, stopping after 3 hours to refuel with cheese, bread, fruit and nuts and then continuing on to the destination.

We will soon have to get up around 4am, as the heat is such a factor, to walk after 11 am will be impossible.

Sometimes I think we are nuts. Everyone looks at us as if we are nuts. So many people have no idea that this ancient pilgrimage exists in this part of Spain. They all know about the “Camino Frances” which travels along the northern part of Spain.

We did though, have our first man write out a sin for us to carry to Santiago. Yesterday, when were in the “cowboy’s takeaway bar” a man came up to us with a note that we are to carry to Santiago. He is asking for God’s blessing and forgiveness. He didn’t mention what he had done, but we will carry the note with us. When we get to Santiago we will remember him and ask for a blessing.

Day 4 and 5 Alcala to Baena

Day 4     May 28^th            Alcala la Real to Alcaudete - 22kms

Holy, it is hot!!!!!!!!. Spanish heat is not something you can train for in Tasmania.  Today’s journey was hard, not because there was a lot of uphill or anything like that, but because this is the first time we have ever walked more than 3 consecutive days.  Plus the days are getting hotter. I’m sure it was over 33 degrees today. Fortunately Spencer is feeling better, I think the antibiotics have kicked in. We managed to leave early, 6:30am and arrive in Alcaudete by 12:15.

We’ve been to Alcaudete before, many years ago. Back in the day when we lived in Spain and Max (our oldest son) was an amateur mountain biker, we came here for one of his races.  We actually were able to visit a lot of villages in southern Spain by taking Max to bike races. Biking is such a big sport here. Last night we went to a bar and were able to watch Canadian, Ryder Hesjedal, win the “Giro de Italia”. It is the first time a Canadian has won the prestigious race and it was cool to be in a country where the sport is so revered.

Speaking of Max, whilst we were in Sydney, Australia last week, we were able to watch him live on TV, in a World Cup race in France. It was so exciting to watch it live. (Thanks Donna and Mick) He started 33^rd and finished 9^th place over all.  This is looking good because this will give him a better starting position for the next World Cup in Canada. We are very proud of that boy!!!!

 Day 5        May 29^th       Alcaudete to Baena – 24 kms

27 years ago today, I embarked on a brand new adventure. 27 years ago, I became a mother for the first time, and what a great adventure it has been and continues to be.

 HAPPY BIRTHDAY MAX!! I never thought that 27 years later I would be on another great adventure.

Alcaudete to Baena

Today was another beautiful walk.

We left this morning at 6 am. It was still dark but Spencer scoped out the road the night before. We needed to leave early because the mercury was supposed to go up to 33 degrees again today. The road led through olive field after olive field. We had a "Beatle" moment  and started singing "Olive fields forever." We stopped to admire the view, when Spencer noticed some rustling in the grass alongside the path, he poked his walking pole in to see what it was, and suddenly a huge snake jumped out at him. The snake actually tried to bite him on the leg. Fortunately it wasn’t successful and slithered away. Turns out it was the largest and most common venomous snake in Spain , the Montpellier. 

 

 It’s funny, because all the time we lived in Tasmania we were very snake aware and we never had one incident. The other day we were commenting on nice it was to put our packs down and not worry about snakes, spiders or jack jumping ants. Never in a million years did we think about venomous snakes here. 

Baena also has some significance for us as a family. About 12 years ago we stopped here for refreshment break on the way to visit the city of Cordova. We were sitting in the plaza near the church when Aram, (our youngest son), out of the blue said " I helped build that church." We asked him what he meant and he said he remembered working with stones on the right side of the church. 

Aram was about 7 or 8 years old and it was said so assuredly, and so randomly, that it made both Spencer and I wonder about "past lives."

I wonder too if I haven't had past lives here, as I feel like being in Spain is like being home.

Pinos Puente to Alcala la Real

Pinos Puente to Moclin 17kms

 Spencer woke up feeling a bit under the weather, and no wonder, with all that we have been through the last few days. In the course of one week we have managed to pack up a house and life of four years, say goodbye to new friends, hello and goodbye to old friends, travel half way across the world and begin a long time dream. Oh.. and walk in 30 degree heat for 5 hours with a heavy pack. I think he has developed a bad chest infection. Fortunately I have an extra course of antibiotics in my first aid kit but I didn’t think we would need it so soon. Spencer wasn’t feeling too bad this morning when we left. We left quite early, 6:30 am. It was a gorgeous sunrise as we left Pinos Puente. We followed the route along the north side of the river and ambled through olive grove after olive grove.

 The route was well marked with golden arrows. The last bit of the walk was a bit of a grind though, 300 metres, almost straight up from a village called Los Olivares to a hilltop village called Moclin. 

Moclin is on the top of the hill in the background

This little village is stunning, perched on a hilltop, all under the protection of an old guard castle.

 Upon arrival Spencer went right to bed but I wandered the village to look at all the for sale signs, fantasizing about how I could live here.

We are staying a small accommodation called “Las Brisas which is run by 2 lovely women. When they found out Spencer was sick they literally offered us every remedy under the sun. They have also said that we are to stay here for free until Spencer is better.  It was a custom in the medieval times that if a pilgrim is sick he is allowed to stay another night in the refugio, otherwise one must leave the following morning.We'll see what tomorrow brings.

 Sunday, May 27th -  Moclin to Alcala la Real (should only be 24 kms but we made it about 28kms)

Today was nuts!!!! Spencer woke up early and said he was feeling OK to walk. So, off we went, again leaving before the sun came up. The morning was stunning and the view leaving the hilltop village of Moclin was impressive. This time of year is so beautiful as all the spring flowers are in bloom, there are red poppies and white daisies everywhere.

All was fine until we entered the olive groves and soon lost the comfort of the guiding golden arrows. They were nowhere to be found, but we were too far in the groves and too stubborn to turn around, so we bush whacked our way up a hill, only there to find 2 arrows, each one pointing in a different direction. We went with the one that had a newer look to it and this led us to the major highway. All was fine until we made another error. We thought we would take a short cut to make up for lost time. Ha!!! Did we ever take the long way round. We ended up taking refuge from the hot sun at a petrol station, at which a man felt sorry for us and drove us to where he knew the camino was. I think this must have been an old, poorly marked camino because within the hour we were lost again. 

Walking into Alcala la Real

 Fortunately a biker pointed us in the direction of Alcala la Real and we hobbled into Alcala la Real on a bike path, not on the camino.

We learned a lot today. All the while, Spencer was feeling sicker and sicker. Hopefully after a good meal and a good rest we will continue tomorrow, wiser than the day before.

Madrid to Pinos Puente

Arrival in Madrid

Air travel is certainly not the glamorous thing it used to be. After 36 hours of flying, Sydney to Madrid, we made it to the hotel downtown, albeit it was basically a closet with a bathroom.

The Camino has already bestowed on us its first random acts of kindness. Upon checking into the flight in Sydney the man at the counter blocked a seat between Spencer and I so we would have extra room. It was the only open seat in economy on an Airbus 380. Then on the flight portion from Dubai to Madrid we sat beside a wonderful man named Francisco who went 40 kms out of his way to drive us to our hotel in the center of Madrid. Gracias Francisco!!

After a quick shower we wandered Madrid until we had to go to the “Friends of the Camino” office to pick up our “credencial”. (this is an official certificate that gets stamped along the way to prove that you were a pilgrim) I had envisioned a seedy little office with a few elderly men sitting around. This was certainly not the case. We arrived at 7pm to a long line-up of people. They herded us into a room one group at a time, explained to us various aspects of the camino, then hurried us out to let the next group in. In the short time we were there, there were at least 20 other people picking up their credencial. I can only hope that they all don’t do the same route as us. Last year 165,000 people did caminos but only 65 pilgrims did the ‘Camino Mozarabe.” 

                                                                                                                                                                                                         With credencials in hand we ventured out for a lovely meal at the Museum of Ham.  A busy, loud tapas bar with many types of cured hams hanging from the rafters welcomed us. We enjoyed Jamon Iberico,  Queso Manchego, salad and some good vino tinto. The Spanish do know how to eat!!!!!

  We noticed many changes in Madrid.  Due to the recent economic situation in Spain there were many more buskers than I remember, creative buskers as well the homeless. There was also a heavy police presence due to the many recent protests against the austerity programs the government is enforcing. 

Now with Spanish mobile phone, Wi-Fi stick, credencials and heavy (probably too heavy) backacks we are off to Granada by bus to finally start.

The Beauty of Granada

There is a Spanish saying- “To be blind in Granada is one of the world’s greatest tragedies” and I couldn’t agree more.  Granada has got to be one of the most beautiful cities in the world.

We arrived in Granada Wednesday night and were met by wonderful old friends. Allan and Ana Madsen were close friends of ours when we lived in Aguilas, Spain from 1999 to 2003. Spending 2 days wandering the streets of Granada, eating tapas, enjoying wine and reminiscing old times was great fun. We managed to find the obscure beginnings of the Camino and get our credencial stamped by the nuns, all in preparation for the big departure on Friday. 

THE FIRST DAY Granada  to Pinos Puente -19kms

I can’t believe we are finally doing the Camino. After months of anticipation, it is here. Of course we stayed up way too late with Allan and Ana, drank way too much wine and brandy, so the morning departure was delayed by a few hours. 

Leaving Granada was like being on a treasure hunt. We managed to find the first few arrows alright but after that it was an interesting challenge. People that have lived their whole life in Granada had no idea that there was even a Camino. Everyone we would ask gave us blank stares, even the woman at the Tourism office had no idea. We eventually found our way out of the city almost by feel, squealing with delight every time we spotted a golden arrow. A yellow arrow or a yellow scallop shell is the symbol of the camino and marks the route all the way to Santiago in the north of Spain. In order to find the arrows one must look high and low as they can be placed in the weirdest places. 

Walking felt wonderful. Both Spencer and I feel very, very blessed to have this incredible experience and are thankful for the opportunity. We did get lost a few times and even though the distance was only 19 kms I think we ended up walking about 25kms in all.

 But.. we feel great and look forward to the rest of the journey. Only 1180 kms to go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

SYDNEY AND BEYOND
The last couple weeks have been hectic as we closed the Tasmanian chapter of our lives. Many teary eyed good byes were said and to-do-lists ticked off. The container with all our belongings, except what we need on the Camino, has been packed and sent away but the reality of leaving finally set in as we boarded the plane in Hobart. You would think we would be used to moving. In the last 24 years Spencer and I have made 12 major moves, 5 of those have been overseas. The moves just don't get any easier. 
It is hard to believe we are leaving; we fell in love with Tasmania, its people, its nature and its laid back lifestyle. Its a very, very special place. Thanks to everyone who made our lives in Tasmania a wonderful experience, especially Tarremah Steiner School and Brad and Linda for being understanding and hospitable right to the very end. 
 We have made it as far as Sydney and are staying with old high school friends, Donna and Mick Hawke.  After an emotional plane ride over the Bass Strait it was nice to be picked up by friends and toured around Sydney.

Sydney is beautiful, the weather is perfect,went to Bondi Beach in search of Bondi Vet but alas he must have been out rescuing animals elsewhere. We are here until Monday and then we are off to Madrid