Day 36 Montamarta to Granja de Moreruela 24kms walked
The temperatures have finally dropped!!! This morning was almost
cold but fantastic for walking. A large part of today’s walk was beside a
reservoir but unfortunately there has been no water in it this year. They have
had an incredibly dry spring, many of the farmers are worried. Very few olives
have appeared on the trees, so stock up on olive oil now ‘cause the price is
going to rise.
Today we are staying in a lovely Casa Rural called Tio Ouicos.
This has probably been my favourite of all the places we have stayed so far. The
whole place was done up in the old fashioned style, complete with well in the
patio and fireplace in the kitchen.
This is a great way to end the “Via de la
Plata”, tomorrow we begin a new path on the camino.
So far we have walked almost 900 kilometers.
Both Spen and I are
have been exceptionally fortunate with our feet. We have had NO problems
whatsoever. Except for a few worn socks we have been lucky. Many pilgrims don’t
fare as well.
Day
37 Granja de Moreruela to
Tabara 28kms
I can’t believe how cold it was this morning,we could actually see
our breath. We have now left the “Via de la Plata” and are on a new camino
called the “Camino Sanabres”
Direction -Orense or Astorga, we chose Orense |
We had the option to continue on north and join
the “Camino Frances” or turn left and take “Camino Sanabres.” We chose the “Sanabres”
because it is a road less travelled, hence there are fewer people. We have now
left the flat, bread basket of Spain and are continuing on into a more
mountainous region.
crossing Rio Esla |
It felt good to be back in the cool mountain air and trees.
entering Tabara |
Day 38 Tabara to Ollera de laTera
30kms
Well… we ended up in this Ollera de la Tera place all because we wanted to take a
shortcut. You would think we would know by now. ??
At first we thought it was pretty cool because we passed a cave village.
All the houses were built into the banks.
The stairs down |
After 30 kilometers we have ended up
in the village of Ollera de la Tera, that I don’t think has seen a pilgrim stay
for years. We were so tired, the next village with accommodation was about 14kms so we decided to look for the albergue, We ended up
asking an elderly woman in the street if there was one. Well… she suddenly got fired up and started shouting “Maria, Maria, you have someone” Maria came out of
the house down the street, all excited but said it was time for mass and she
had to go because the priest only comes once every 6 weeks, but, she would meet
us after mass in the local bar and show us the albergue. This was fine as we
had just walked 6 hours and could use a coffee. Well,…. now I know why the priest only comes every 6
weeks. He gives all 6 masses in one, it must have been the longest mass in
history. Finally after hours of sitting, waiting, Maria shows up at the bar
with all her friends and tells us that she has to have “brunch” first before
she can take us to the albergue. So
Maria goes in to have her brunch and leaves us to talk to several of her older
friends. One woman casually mentions that we are brave to stay at the albergue
because that is where they put the sick people. She hopes that we wouldn’t have
to use any of the sheets or the blankets. At this point, I am scared. Finally,
Maria’s husband surfaces (after having had a 3 course breakfast) and says he
will take us to the albergue. It was basic to say the least. !!!!!
Spen trying to feel at home |
There were
no infected sheets or blankets, just a pile of mattresses and 2 beds. We don’t have sheets or blankets so I am not
sure how we will pass the night, it gets cold up here. Stay posted
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